Thursday, July 06, 2006

What now?

Strangly enough, I'm not at all despondent or depressed about stopping. This race has definitely been about he journey, and not the destination.

I have spent 18 days on my bike - something I could only dream of before attempting this - never thought it was vaguely possible to do this. The continuous 12hr+ days are quite strenuous, but the body copes remarkably well with this (to a certain extent in my case). After a while the riding actually became secondary - you forget about the riding, and it becomes more about the whole experience, not just a MTB ride.

I have seen the most magnificent and varied scenery that I could imagine - the fact that we want to tour other countries to see fantastic scenery is beyond me - the variation and the grandeur of our country ranges from the rolling green hills of the Natal Midlands, the KZN bush of the Hela Hela pass area, the flood plains with extensive tracks norh west of Matatiele into the southern Maluti mountains. My initial preconception was that the Eastern Cape is flat - far from it, but there were a number of "wow" moments, when you come out of a mountain range to find a dead flat plain in front of you. The mountains eventually gave way to the rolling hills of Stormberg region, back to the Southern Cape mountain ranges with the extensive river valleys and gorges, and then finally to the flat Karoo that everyone knows.

The weather was fairly kind to us - good, clear days with no wind on most days. The most notable exceptions were the snowfalls when trying to cross the Drakensburg ( and the subsequent days riding in snow), and the night riding on Day 9, when we got rain and -10deg C temparetures. Trying to cope with frozen waterbottles during the mornings across the Eastern Cape became a daily issue - this area must surely qualify as one of the coldest areas in South Africa.

We were exposed to the daily living of a number of different cultures and regional grouping of people across the country - we stayed in their homes with them, ate with them, found out about their communities, economics and problems. This ranged from the Zulu cattle and sheep farmers of KZN, to the Xhosa and Sotho farmers of the Southern Maluti's, the sheep farmer of the eastern cape, the Game Farmer of the Southern cape, and then the produce farmers of the Southern Cape mountains. One thing that really struck me was the number of abandoned farm buildings that we encountered - more land is owned by less people, and apparently a lot of the stock farmers are switching to game / hunting farms, as a result of the better profits.

The common thread running through all peoples was generosity - throughout my trip I have been in need of assistance, and each time I though that I was finished, someone turned up to rescue my day. From the young shepherd boys who gave me a blanket, because that's all they had, to the Terblanche family that allowed me to stay with them while I recovered from my first bout of sickness, everyone gave what they could, without a desire for compensation, other than a word of thanks. At some stage every participant in the race spent a night with someone who knew nothing of the race, but were willing to keep us going. The farmers were an absolute menace though - each time you cross their land you've got to stop to chat and have a cup of coffee!


This is defintiley a great way to tour the country, and is well within the ability of most people - you can pack a bag with your necessities, work out a route, make your bookings, and go MTB touring. You travel quick enough to make some ground in a day, but slow enough to experience the environment around you. I think this is one of Dave's main objectives with this race, and it has definitely opened my eyes to the possibilities that exist.

To Cornel and Ben who went for the record and got it, well done - I don't know where you got the mental stamina to do it. To Gerrit and Xolani, my travelling companions, good luck - you will reach the end soon and finsih the wonderful journey. And to Dave the organiser - I have hated you and admired you, but in the end it has been the most fantastic adventure of my life - I'll probably be back to finish it one day. And thanks to all that followed my story and sent wishes - it was really encouraging to read these at night - maybe you'll all be inspired to stretch your limits a but - it's fun!

From me...over and out

Day 19 - The end of the road

I didn't sleep much last night and spent the night nursing my stomach bug (if you can call it that). I woke up at the alarm (3am), and couldn't get myself out of bed to ride. Gerrit wasn't feeling well either, so he and Xolani left later than planned - not quite sure what time. I finally surfaced at 7am, bit was in no condition to ride for 150km across to Prince Albert.

I tried to keep breakfast in, then lunch, with no luck. I decided to abandon the race and keep my body a break - seems like it's going into meltdown. Manged to get a late bus from Willomore to Jhb, so I'm back home, and my race has come to an end.

Day 18 - Not a good day

Today's stage was supposed to be a fairly easy ride from Sandvlakte in the upper (flatter) sections of Baviaanskloof to Willomore, with only on minor climb out of the kloof. We left the wonderful hospitality of Dam se Drif guest house at about 7:30am to the Baviaans Information center, where we were asked to stop for a cup off coffee (again).

I have been carrying a stomach bug for a few days, and last night it got a bit worse. My dinner passed straight through me and breakfast went the same way. Needless to say the coffee at the information center turned out to be a magnificent spread of homemade breads, biscuits, rusks, salami, lemonade and jams... so I was able to restock my body. If you are ever in this area, you must stop at the information center for a chat - lovely old couple with a really good knowledge of the area, as well as being owners of a cave B&B - didn't see it, bount sounds fascinating.

A few few kilos from this break I stopped to get rid of mid-morning breakfast, and I really struggled from there - 50km staring at Gerrit's wheel. Oh yes, somehow Xolani managed to rejoin us - something like 3 consectuve 17hr days to catch up - so he was also riding along but also fatigued. We eventually got to Willomore at 14:30 and I fell in to bed and slept - I couldn't keep anything in my system.

Supper has just gone the same way as the rest of the days food. Gerrit's knees are starting to hurt, so he went to the doctor for drugs - hope this doesn't ruin his race.

Not feeling good - bed.

Monday, July 03, 2006

Day 17 - Many passes

Today was the first day that we had no navigation, portages or anything funny - amazing, considering that we have been riding for 16 days now. One dirt road to the next stop.

Now I'm not saying that the dirt road was easy! We had to ride a section of the Baviaanskloof, and the first 40km from Cambria is a series of passes - 1 major pass and about 5 smaller passes - really draining. Each pass did, however, have a good downhill, so there was some fun - the road surface was good, so we could hit 60km/h. The disc brakes were screaming.

After yesterday we were both a bit flat - Gerrit had no legs, and I was back to being as mentally strong as cheese. Not sure why. We plodded on and made it into the overnight stop at 16h00. We were give frshly brewed coffee, freshly baked rusks and banana bread - and suddenly we were both feeling fine again. Strange how it works.

The owners are doing some laundry for us, the bikes are clean, we are clean, so hopefully tomorrow will be a better stage, then onto the 150km to Prince Albert.

I'm missing Corrinne a lot, and Gerrit is missing Estelle (his wife). Thanks for all you messages and wishes - I do read them, and they do make a difference.

Day 16 - Knee deep in the ....

Just when I thought I was getting to grips with this race, another curve ball. It was after dark and we were wading knee deep through a river - we had to cross it at least 10 times, some crossings being 100m long.

Today's stage from Bucklands to Cambria is not a particularly long one, but is definitely up there with the harder stages. 12hrs to do 80km gives some idea

Xolani did not come in last night, so Gerrit and I started with a nice eay ride out the back of Buclands, across a few farms then over a mountain called the Perdeberg. We engaged the help of of the locals to where the track started. His words wisdom were, "The path is undetectable, but you'll find it." - Duh! We found what could've been a path during the 1st Boer War, and use that - hard going as it was slippery slate.

After getting to to the top, the path vanished completely, but some good navigation by Gerrit got us back on track. Farmers have no respect for gradient or erosion, but this makes for the most fantastic downhills - rocky, slippery and super fast - you've got to be focus all the time, else you're off the edge. We exited this section at 11:15am with about 60km to go.

The dirt road to our next off-road excursion took us down a magnificent kloof - steep gradients, and lots of fast straights. Unfortunately the drops on the side where 300m straight down, so I wasn't that brave. At the bottom we stopped at a farm and were given some bread - the slices were the size of my hand, and the loaf at least 50cm long - never seen anything like it in my life before - thought I was in heaven - delicious!

The Ossewa (Oxwagon) jeep track was our next off-road trip. I thought it would be one long downhill, but it turned out to be a serious of ups and down's with one major drop at the end. I think the gradient is steeper than the Rhodes cement tracks - without the cement.

The final stretch of the day, in darkness, was a really nice winding section along a wide river, with very steep walls, towering over us - quite dramatic in the moonlight. We had to cross the river a few times, a bit cold, but luckily the tempareture tonight is quite pleasant, so it wasn't too much of an issue. In some places we could not see where the path exited the river, so we just waded until we found the spot. This took us to our overnight stop in Cambria.

We spent the day in the most magnificent mountain ranges, around the BAviaanskloof area. There is plenty of game - at dusk about 10 kudu crossed the path about 30-40m in front of us. The plantlife is varied, and there are lots of species of birds. This must be one of the best wilderness areas in the country - bring 4X4 though.

Tomorrow we will not double up as we originally planned - can be done later. We want to recover a it for the few big days to come especially 150km to Prince Albert. Also too scared to tackle a 180km stage!

Body feeling good, mind still strong - at no stage have I struggled to keep moving - each peddle stroke takes us closer to home.

Day 16 - Knee deep in the ....

Just when I thought I was getting to grips with this race, another curve ball. It was after dark and we were wading knee deep through a river - we had to cross it at least 10 times, some crossings being 100m long.

Today's stage from Bucklands to Cambria is not a particularly long one, but is definitely up there with the harder stages. 12hrs to do 80km gives some idea

Xolani did not come in last night, so Gerrit and I started with a nice eay ride out the back of Buclands, across a few farms then over a mountain called the Perdeberg. We engaged the help of of the locals to where the track started. His words wisdom were, "The path is undetectable, but you'll find it." - Duh! We found what could've been a path during the 1st Boer War, and use that - hard going as it was slippery slate.

After getting to to the top, the path vanished completely, but some good navigation by Gerrit got us back on track. Farmers have no respect for gradient or erosion, but this makes for the most fantastic downhills - rocky, slippery and super fast - you've got to be focus all the time, else you're off the edge. We exited this section at 11:15am with about 60km to go.

The dirt road to our next off-road excursion took us down a magnificent kloof - steep gradients, and lots of fast straights. Unfortunately the drops on the side where 300m straight down, so I wasn't that brave. At the bottom we stopped at a farm and were given some bread - the slices were the size of my hand, and the loaf at least 50cm long - never seen anything like it in my life before - thought I was in heaven - delicious!

The Ossewa (Oxwagon) jeep track was our next off-road trip. I thought it would be one long downhill, but it turned out to be a serious of ups and down's with one major drop at the end. I think the gradient is steeper than the Rhodes cement tracks - without the cement.

The final stretch of the day, in darkness, was a really nice winding section along a wide river, with very steep walls, towering over us - quite dramatic in the moonlight. We had to cross the river a few times, a bit cold, but luckily the tempareture tonight is quite pleasant, so it wasn't too much of an issue. In some places we could not see where the path exited the river, so we just waded until we found the spot. This took us to our overnight stop in Cambria.

We spent the day in the most magnificent mountain ranges, around the BAviaanskloof area. There is plenty of game - at dusk about 10 kudu crossed the path about 30-40m in front of us. The plantlife is varied, and there are lots of species of birds. This must be one of the best wilderness areas in the country - bring 4X4 though.

Tomorrow we will not double up as we originally planned - can be done later. We want to recover a it for the few big days to come especially 150km to Prince Albert. Also too scared to tackle a 180km stage!

Body feeling good, mind still strong - at no stage have I struggled to keep moving - each peddle stroke takes us closer to home.

Day 15 - Xolani falls off the pace

After arriving at 20:30 last night, Xolani passed out on the bed, without washing, eating or charging his cellphone. We tried to wake him with no success.

He found out his morning that this is not an option - within about 1km of starting this morning he fell off the pace (if that's what you can call it - 15km/h). We waited for him, but he kept falling back. With a long day to look forward to we decided to push on, and leave Xolani to pick up detailed route instructions from a lodge along the route.

The day started fast and flat, as we decide to do a longer (20km) detour to skip a very thorny section. It didn't take too long, , so we were OK with that - it did however push our mileage up to the 140km mark again.

The most rugged valley I have ever seen followed this. There were fist sized rocks everywhere, like every big rock had been smashed to pieces, long white thorn bushes and smaller cacti with short thick thorns - thats all - no grass or bushes, birds - nothing. The going was tough - weave around the rocks, dodge thorns, and push up the hills.

The rest of the day was fairly straight-forward - we saw some more kudu close to the road, this time a bull and a cow together. While Gerhard was fixing a pucture I counted 39 wet spots where thorns had penetrated my tyre, and still OK.

Its now 22:30 and Xolani is still not in.

Day 14 - Night Riding

Andre here

Once again a generous stranger has come to our rescue. OUr overnight stop had problems accommodating us, so another farmer has opened up his home - really open - there is no bathroom door.

We left the game farm, with a big portage out the back of their farm, which took 2hrs, and another 3hrs down. We stumbled, crawled, carried, bush-wacked our way down a shaded kloof into the Karoo - another one of those "now you see it..." terrain changes. Now just flat scrubland!

It was arranged that our daily distance was increased, to decrease tomorrow's distance. This meant that we got to our original overnight stop (Van de Venterskraal) at 15h00, then pushed on for another 35km to Mentzdam. I thought we were in for a really long night. The 1st 4km after the farm took over an hour. We got to what was described as the "hoofpad" (main road). My only comment was "Holy sh!t, is this what they call a main road" - looked more like a goat track. We switched to cold weather gear and lights, and started our trip down the river valley. This section was some of the best night riding I have ever done - smooth, fast, sweeping and downhill. The only hold-up was a 8ft game fence that had to be scaled, but we're getting good at that now.

After about 20km of this we got to a district road and did 10km to our overnight stop. Just before the stop, a guy in a bakkie stopped us and told us we were staying at his farm, 5km back up the road - ouch. Xolani, who had coped well the whole day, fell apart at this stage - mental meltdown - he could hardly turn his pedals.

There is food here and a warm bed, so I am happy. Xolani has passed out without eating - bad news - we'll see how he does tomorrow.

Day 16 & 17

After all the drama of the first 10 days, there really isn't anything exciting to report about day 16 and 17. While the race leaders are due to finish today or tomorrow (really fantastic stuff!) Andre and Gerrit are somewhere between Cambria and Sandvlakte...eh...anybody EVER heard of those towns/farms/settlements? They have probably completed nearly 1500km and they are still going strong. Andre mentioned this morning that mentally it's going to be really hard this week knowing that the leaders are already at home. But he still joked that it's a lot better being on the bike in the middle of nowhere than being at the office!
The hospitality and support from strangers in the Eastern Cape has been phenominal. Andre and Gerrit have slept in warm beds, had warm showers, had warm meals and warm welcomes. I'm a bit concerned about the state of the clothing since Andre hasn't mentioned much other than, "I can't really wash the clothes because they don't get dry by the monrning". Hmmmm....Andre has asked me to meet him in Cape Town at the finish, but I'm not sure I want to! I will probably smell him before I see him!!!
But everything is fine and only 1 week left to go. For me. And one week of bliss left for Andre.
Till next time,
Corrinne

Saturday, July 01, 2006

Day 14 & 15

It’s day 15 today and although it feels like week 15 for me, Andre is still enjoying every minute and can’t believe that tomorrow he would’ve done the equivalent of 2 consecutive Epic rides. Andre and Gerrit are on their way to Bucklands (anybody ever heard of it?) after an extended ride yesterday. The ride to van de Venterskraal was supposed to be 70km but the organizer (in consultation with the riders) decided to extend the route by 30km yesterday to make the route shorter today. Today’s route was going to be 150km which is a really long day but it will only be 120km due to extended riding yesterday.
Andre’s race report for yesterday was very short – he was strong, knees were holding up, good route and clear day. They only arrived at the station at 8pm-ish and were eating steaks the size of dinner plates at 10pm. They slept fitfully and this morning headed out towards Bucklands – they should arrive at about 6pm tonight.
Andre incorrectly reported earlier that Xolani had retired when in fact Greville had due to illness. Xolani is still in the race but Andre said that he was so broken yesterday that he arrived at the station and fell asleep immediately – without eating or cleaning (!). Needless to say he was stuffed this morning because he hadn’t replenished his body last night so he has stayed behind for a bit today to try and recuperate. Andre and Gerrit are happy, in good spirits and strong.
Thank you to everybody for all the special messages of support and encouragement – Andre really does appreciate it.
Till next time,
Corrinne